A French Love Affair

Today, I had the opportunity to explore Nice a little further.  The first several times I was in Nice, I didn't particularly like it.  However, some of that was due to the fact I was just driving through it and there is nothing to love about its congested traffic and crazy drivers with the main road (double lanes) traversing the city behind grubby buildings which block the views of the sea.  The road also roughly follows the railway line and we know how special those areas of any town are!  I knew its famous image was one of beauty - the Promenade des Anglais, the lovely baie des Anges, the yachts, the beaches, and such; I just hadn't seen that side of it until recently. So, like in many relationships, it was certainly not love at first sight.  However, sometimes an affection grows slowly and blossoms into something stronger.  A few years ago, I did a walking tour which opened my eyes to another side of Nice, one that I could fall in love with - the old town, the Cours Saleya (the market) and the little back alleys where there are charming store fronts and restaurants serving every kind of food imaginable. 

Today (a Sunday), I thought I would explore the city further and see if my interest would grow.  Besides, it was dressed up in its "Sunday best":  the sky was blue and clear, the light breeze warm and, as the day wore on, the sun made the temperatures soar.  I started by visiting the Cours Saleya which I actually thought would be empty.  Not so.  The food stalls were bustling with local residents buying their produce, cheeses, spices and flowers.  It was fun to watch. 

This plaque is on the wall outside my hotel

The war memorial on the road above the port

My very casual breakfast stop

This and below - the market in Cours Saleya

 

 

 

 

 

 

I thought of Nawal when I saw this cactus stand in the market

Next, I walked along one of the main back streets (a pedestrian one) and came to the big squares and lovely pastel-coloured buildings which make Nice look like it should belong in Italy rather than France (in reality at one time the city was part of Italy so I guess it makes sense).   

 

 

 

 

Then, I headed back to the seafront and walked along the Promenade des Anglais to the Hotel Negresco (it was easy to get in my 10,000 steps today!).  Close to where the terrorist attack happened last year, I found a small plaque commemorating the victims (unfortunately the photo didn't turn out very well as I cut the top half of it off - oops).  

 

 

From there, I walked back to the vieux ville checking out possible dinner locations before going back to the seafront for some lunch.
 

 

As with many relationships, things can be confusing.  I expected everything to be closed because it was Sunday.  However, that was not the case.  Shoe stores were open but pharmacies closed (although I have been told there is always one open somewhere on a Sunday); Auer, a world famous confiserie, was closed but a few streets over a maccaron shop was offering its speciality; tattoo parlours were open but book stores were shuttered (what does that say about the city's priorities).  So, you can see how it can get confusing.  I am sure there is some sort of rhyme and reason to it but I couldn't see it - not unlike peoples' behaviour in some relationships.
 

Aude - closed

Maccaron store - open

Back in the Cours Saleya area - the market now closed

Regardless of its quirks, every time I am here, I fall a bit more in love with this wonderful city.  I'm pretty sure it will never surpass Villefranche sur Mer in my heart but it is beginning to have a special place.