Another Day in Port

The excursion for our second day in Palermo was a visit to the Palatine Chapel and Cathedral.  Palermo is the capital of Sicily.  Although I had missed the excursion yesterday to Monreale, I think some of what we saw today was a bit similar.  The chapel was built during the 1130s and 1140s.  It is a fusion of Latin, Byzantine and Arabic architecture.  We also toured the nearby Palermo Cathedral – although to be honest, I started getting very confused about which was which, who built what, and what saint was buried where.  90% of Sicilians are Catholic so I am sure it means a lot more to them that it does to me.  The mosaics we saw were amazing – many done in gold.  I know the church was Norman built by Roger II and, until now, I did not know the Normans ever went this far south.  I thought they had only focused on England.  You know, William, the Conqueror, in 1066 and the Norman conquest.  Clearly, I am no historian!  I never took any history after about Grade 9 or 10 and that is now very apparent! 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In the afternoon, I could have explored Palermo independently.  It actually looked interesting and I would have loved to do that.  However, Daphne had been confined to her cabin 24 hours with suspected food poisoning (which thankfully I didn’t get even though we had shared a lunch platter in Valetta) so I didn't have her to pal around with and I was reluctant to take on the Sicilian capital on my own.  So, I retreated to the ship, sat in the sunshine and read.  The good news was, when we returned to the ship, because of the continuing rough seas in the strait between Sicily and the Italian mainland, the captain made the decision to remain in Palermo for one more night rather than sail to Trapani.  We will still get to do the planned shore excursions but by bus and, therefore, we would avoid any chance of further motion sickness!

So, on the 25th, we were driven by coach to the hilltop town of Erice, one of two optional tours.  With my fascination with “perched villages”, I had chosen Erice.  While Trapani is only one or two km from Erice, remaining in the port of Palermo made for a long drive – 1h 40m to get there.  The other destination was Segesta, a city with a 5thC temple and also a Greek (and later Roman) theatre. I am beginning to have my fill of Greek and Roman ruins - and there are more to come in Spain!   At least the bus ride meant we would see more of the interior countryside of Sicily.

 

 

 

Erice is Norman town dating back to Roman times.  The road up to it was quite something as there was hairpin turn after hairpin turn and the bus driver honked as we approached each one.  The heights were dizzying but they offered spectacular views. 

 

 

 

Because of the long coach trip, we didn’t have as much time in Erice as we would have liked.  However, it was enough to see the Chiesa Matrice Church and the main street, Corso Vittorio Emmanuel.  The medieval streets were charming with lots of souvenir shops and cafes.  Erice is famous for marzipan pastries and I did buy a few marzipan creations – figs and some other fruit. 

We got back to the ship about 1:20.  Driving across the island, I was struck by the amount of garbage along the sides of the roads wherever we drove – be it in the city or the countryside – there was litter everywhere.  Of course, there were also vineyards and olive groves.  Again, as in many other times on the trip, I wished I had had more time to explore.  Not sure I will get back to Sicily but, if I ever do, it won’t be on a cruise ship.  After spending several days here, not once did I get even a glimpse of Mount Etna.  That just seems wrong!

One thing the guide did talk about was the “Cosa Nostra”, the Sicilian mafia.  After the murder of two judges in the early 1990s, Sicilians started to stand up to them and the tolerance level today is not like it was in times past.  The criminals have lost some of their power – although that is not to suggest they are gone.  Also, there are stronger groups in Naples apparently.  There are several memorials in Palermo to the people who have fought against the mafia, including one along the highway honouring the two judges, one of whom was murdered by a car bomb while driving along the highway from the airport.  Another memorial is in the harbour honouring all those who have come forward as witnesses and informers about the mafia.  So, perhaps the corruption is gradually diminishing although, given how widespread crime is across the globe, I am not convinced!  Look at the controversies surrounding Russia, organizations like FIFA and the IOC, plus gangs all over!

Next up after nearly two days at sea, Spain.  I'm looking forward to it.